PRODUCT TESTING

IN USE TEST

• Objective: Assessment of the absence of adverse reactions related to the cosmetic product in normal use conditions, developed under dermatological control. This test allows classifying the cosmetic as “dermatologically tested”. It may also be carried out on sensitive skin.
• Planning: Duration of the study: 14, 21 or 28 days. It shall be set in advance. Report: 3 weeks after completing the study.
• Methodology: Analysis of the acceptability of the product and subjective assessment of the organoleptic properties of the product by the potential customer.
• Procedure: The volunteers shall apply the cosmetic product to themselves under the supervision of a dermatologist, ophthalmologist, gynaecologist, dentist, paediatrician, depending on the test being done. One completed; the acceptability of the product shall be assessed. On completing the study, a questionnaire is done subjectively to assess its organoleptic properties.

For claim: “Dermatologically tested”.

PATCH TEST

• Objective: Assessment of the acute cutaneous tolerance of the product after 48 hours of occlusive application. It may also be carried out on sensitive skins.
• Planning: Study Duration: 3 days. Day 0 (Initial visit) and day 3 (final visit). Report: 2 weeks after completing the study.
• Methodology: Confirmation of absence of primary irritation of the skin by a dermatologist.
• Procedure: Cutaneous examination of the skin area under study. Application of the cosmetic product under occlusion, on the back of 10 to 20 healthy volunteers and a second empty patch to discord any possible reaction to the patch itself. Both remain on the skin for 48 hours. Removal of the patch by a dermatologist. After 30 minutes, macroscopic examination to determine whether there is a possible dermatological reaction.

For claim: “Dermatologically tested”.

OPEN TEST

• Objective: Assessment of the acute cutaneous tolerance of the product after 48 hours of occlusive application without occlusion. It may also be carried out on sensitive skins.
• Planning: Study duration: 3 or 5 days. It shall be set in advance. Report: 2 weeks after the completion of the study.
• Methodology: Confirmation of absence of primary irritation of the skin in normal conditions of use of a product.
• Procedure: The products tested are applied undiluted, normally on the arm, for exposure periods of up to 60 minutes. The test consists of a single or repeated application of the product. Observing the response of the skin after 30 minutes and an hour after application, as well as 24 and 48 hours after application.Diagnosis of the observable irritation reactions, followed by a macroscopic examination by a dermatologist, also the feelings of discomfort described by the volunteers and signs that may have appeared in control area.

For claim: “Dermatologically tested”.

HRIPT

• Objective: Verification of cutaneous compatibility and the irritation, sensitisation, and contact allergy potential of a cosmetic product.
• Planning: Duration of the study: 6 weeks. Final Report: 10 days after completion of the experimental phase.
• Methodology: Confirmation of absence of sensitivity.
• Procedure: INDUCTION PHASE: 3 consecutive weeks / REST PHASE: One week at least (4 weeks at most). No application of the products / TRIGGER PHASE: 1 week

For claim: “Hypoallergenic”.

HET-CAM

• Objective: To assess changes in the eye followed by the application of a substance to the surface of the eye.
• Planning: Duration of the study: 10 days. Report: 3 weeks.
• Methodology: Observation of the adverse changes ocurred in screening tests performed in vitro in the chorioallatonic membrane of the egg after exposure to the test substance.
• Procedure: Preparation and incubation of eggs.
  The internal membranes are extracted to reveal the chorioallatonic membrane and on the tenth day of incubation. The test substances are added and left in contact for 5 minutes.
  Examination of the membrane to assess the vascular damage.
  Scaling of the irritation according to it seriousness and speed at which the damage occurs.

MICROBIOLOGICAL ANALYSIS

• Objective: To ensure the marketed product is free of the named/cited microorganisms which could affect the quality of the product and the health of the consumers.
• Planning: Delivery time: 2 weeks.
• Methodology: Total viable count and detection of pathogens.
• Procedure: Count and detection of aerobic mesophilic bacteria, moulds and yeasts and Candida albicans, Escherichia coli, Staphylococcus aureus and Pseudomonas aeruginosa.

CHALLENGE TEST

• Objective: To determine the efficacy of the preservative system of a cosmetic product.
• Planning: The cosmetics are analysed on: Day 0, 7, 14 and 28.
• Methodology: The cosmetic is faced with cultures of 5 pathogens, and the reduction caused to bacterial and fungal populations is assessed over the course of 1 month. Analysis carried out according to ISO 11930.
• Procedure: Inoculate of the microorganisms to the cosmetic product. Follow up after 0 hours, 7, 14, 21 and 28 days. Check the inoculated microorganisms have decreased its population over the process follow-up.

STABILITY

• Short-term stability study: the evaluation of a cosmetic product under conditions of heat stress over three months. Predicts the theoretical product life.

COMPATIBILITY

• Compatibility test must be carried out on the final product and container, as a complement to the stability test, to detect interactions between the container and the product that could change the nature of the the product or compromise the safety of the product.

HYDRATION EFFICACY

• Verification of the degree and duration of hydration from a cosmetic product.
• Measurement of hydration using a Corneometer.
• Includes subjective evaluation by consumers.

FIRMING EFFICACY

• Verification of the firming efficacy (tensor and toning effect).
• Measurement of the tensor or toning effect using a Cutometer (elasticity).
• Includes subjective evaluation by consumers.

ANTI-AGEING EFFICACY

• Verification of the anti-ageing efficacy: tensor effect, hydration, reduction of wrinkles.
• Measurement of elasticity using a Cutometer, of hydration effect using a Corneometer and confirmation of wrinkle reduction using high-definition photographs.
• Includes subjective evaluation by consumers.

SEBUM REGULATOR

• Verification of the regulation of sebum secretion
• Measurement of sebum secretion using a Sebumeter, and of sebaceous glands using MSA pro / Sebutape.
• Includes subjective evaluation by consumers.

ANTI-DARK CIRCLE EFFICACY

• Verification of the reduction in dark circles.
• Visual clinical evaluation by the investigator and visual analogue scales by the volunteer.
• Includes subjective evaluation by consumers.

ASTRINGENT EFFICACY

• Verification of the reduction in dilated pores.
• Visual clinical evaluation by the investigator and visual analogue scales by the volunteer.
• Includes subjective evaluation by consumers.

DERMO-PROTECTOR EFFICACY

• Verification of facial skin protection.
• Evaluation through measurements of barrier function by TEWL (transepidermal water loss), degree of hydration (Corneometer), cutaneous pH, and evaluation of reddening and of skin softness through visual assessment by the investigator.